Climb Mont Blanc

The highest mountain in the Alps, with its 4807 meters above sea level, is of course the biggest attraction in Europe and attracts climbers from all corners of the world. Mont Blanc a great challenge even if the climb is not as difficult as on other peaks over 4000 meters in the Alps.

When talking about 4,000-meter peaks in the Alps, you have to remember that Mont Blanc is much closer to 5,000 than 4,000 meters, which is why she is so awe-inspiring and alluring. Climbing Mont Blanc is no longer as easy as it used to be. Conditions on the mountain have become more complicated in recent years and therefore we now also offer this expedition with 1:1 guidance to increase your chances of reaching the top.

The week begins with preparations where we practice the skills of walking with crampons and handling an ice axe, we learn how to use ropes and travel on a glacier. The first days we also spend the important acclimatization to get used to the altitude by climbing an easier peak around 4000 meters high and then go down into the valley again and rest, before we go towards the top. We do the Gouter route but if you have private guidance, there are several routes to the top and we choose the one with the best conditions for the time, which increases your chances significantly as all other routes are guided 1:1.

Previous knowledge

It is good if you have previous experience of glacier travel and alpine climbing, for example our basic course. You also need good fitness and balance. In this case, this means that you must be able to walk with a backpack 8-10 hours/day. Please contact us if you need more information about this. To make this trip with us, you need to be at least 16 years old and in that case accompanied by a guardian.

Number of guests/guide:

We only take 2 guests per guide on all days of our Mt Blanc weeks. By having only 2 guests/guide, we have the opportunity to climb more fun and challenging routes during the air conditioning days and can adapt better to the weather. This is important to maximize the chances of reaching the top.

We also offer 1:1 guiding which is the optimal way to climb Mt Blanc. Then you have your own guide during the peak days, which increases your chances considerably because you can then also choose other routes up to the top. Indicate in your registration if you would like 1:1 guidance.

Equipment

Loan of all climbing equipment needed is included in the price. The following equipment is assigned to you by your mountain guide at the beginning of the week.

• Alpine ice axe

• Crampons

• Helmet

• Harness

• Screw carabiner

Personal equipment

You need to have the following personal equipment with you, this is not included in the course fee. There is time to arrange the final details such as completing equipment on Tuesday morning, but it is an advantage if you have everything ready by Monday.

• Boots to which crampons can be attached (eg Sportiva Nepal Extreme or Trango Extreme Evo) If you are unsure whether your boots are sturdy and warm enough, you can of course ask us before you go. There are boots to rent in Chamonix, best place to rent is Snell Sports in Chamonix. Price list for rental equipment at Snell Sport can be found further down on the first page: https://snellsports.com/snell-english/#rentalandbootfittingrentals (scroll down to rental)

• Warm hat (which fits under a helmet)

• Underwear, shirt and pants (synthetic or wool, not cotton)

• Thinner fleece sweater

• Thicker fleece sweater or thin down jacket

• Wind and waterproof jacket (preferably shell jacket without lining)

• Wind and waterproof trousers (preferably shell trousers without lining)

• Hiking pants

• Thick gloves

• Thin mittens, gloves

• Snow locks (gaiters)

• Headlamp

• Sunglasses

• Ski goggles

• Backpack, approximately 40 litres

• Water bottle

• Sun protection

• Earplugs (good to have in the cabins)

• Travel sheet, to sleep in in the cabins (Not a sleeping bag but a thin synthetic or silk travel sheet, available in the sports shops in Chamonix if you don't have one already)

The following are good to have but not a must:

• Poles (telescopes that can be folded and attached to a backpack)

• Sun hat or cap

• Handkerchief (slightly larger can serve as sun protection for the neck/head)

• Camera (compact)

The following is included in the price

• Professional guidance and instructions by authorized mountain guide

• Basic course in alpine climbing

• 3 nights hotel accommodation in a double room, single rooms can be arranged if possible at an additional cost

• 4 nights accommodation in cabins on the mountain, see programme

• Breakfast

• Dinner in the cabins

• All transport during the week (including road charges)

• All climbing equipment (see above)

• All costs for lifts and cabins for your guide 

The following are not included

• Lunches

• Dinners when we are in the Chamonix valley (see program below)

• Beverage

• Lift card

• Travel to/from Chamonix

• Personal insurance 

Program for the week

Day 1, Travel day, arrival in Chamonix

Normally starts on a Wednesday, see date when booking. Arrival Chamonix, check into hotel. More information about where you live and other good information will come a week or so before departure.

Day 2

First climbing day.

Collection 08.00 (unless otherwise notified by the guide). We go through the week's program and check the equipment you have with you to see if anything needs to be supplemented. Everyone gets their climbing equipment and we check that everything fits in size. We settle with a picnic lunch, which we are helped to carry in the rucksack. We take the lift up from Le Tour and do a beautiful hike of a couple of hours up to the Refuge Albert 1er (refuge is a kind of mountain hotel or mountain cabin) where we will stay and have dinner. Here we eat our packed lunch and then go up on the glacier and start practicing with crampons and an ice axe. 

Day 3

We start early and climb some nice peak directly from the cabin. The Aiguille du Tour with its beautiful rock peaks at 3542 meters is a fine target from this cabin. Coming down from the summit we go to the Cabane du Trient at 3170 meters where we spend the night.

Day 4

We do one of the other peaks in the area and build on our knowledge to further prepare for the summit of Mont Blanc. After finishing the climb we descend and take the lift back down to Le Tour and Chamonix and stay here for the night. Taking lifts up and then climbing and living at a higher altitude is an important part of acclimatization. In this way, we get to a height without straining our forces too much.

Day 5

After a strengthening night in the valley, we will now start to climb towards the top. First we take a lift and train to Nid d'Aigle (Eagle's Nest). From here the hike begins, which turns into climbing up to one of the cabins Tete Rousse (3167 meters) or Rif de Nid d'Aigle.

Day 6

As this type of climbing is weather dependent, it is important to plan a couple of alternative summit days to maximize our chances of reaching the summit. Monday is peak day, but if the weather wants otherwise, we can wait a day. On the peak day, we leave the cabin before it gets light. The first bit is done with a headlamp and on the way up we get to enjoy the sunrise. After enjoying the view from the top as long as the weather allows, we start to descend again. Usually we go down to the train/lift and go down to Chamonix on the same day.

The peak day is 10-12 hours long, at least (!) so training at a low intensity for a long time is recommended for your experience to be as good as possible.

ATTENTION! In order for us to be able to climb the top one of the last days, the weather needs to be so good that we don't take an unreasonable risk on the way up or on the way down.

If the forecast shows, for example, thunder, strong winds or very hot temperatures, we reserve the right to cancel the summit ascent. This is a safety decision that the mountain guides make on the spot in the days before the summit climb. 

Day 7

If we come down already on Tuesday, this will be an extra day when we can sleep in and then stroll around Chamonix. For those who feel like it, the mountain guides are on site and can take you on a day of rock climbing on one of the many fine rocks in the valley. 

Day 8

Breakfast is served at the hotel before it is time to check out of the rooms. If you want to stay in Chamonix for a few days, we can help you book a hotel.

The weeks usually run from Wednesday to Wednesday, see date when booking so you can book flights on the right day.

Insurance

You get the best insurance for alpine climbing by being a member of one of the alpine clubs in the Alps. We recommend that you become a member of the Austrian Alpine Club.

Last date for booking

The booking pressure on the cabins we stay in during the climb has increased significantly in recent years. We must have your names in order to book places in the cabin. We therefore need your booking by the end of November before the coming summer.

Mental preparation

Before an expedition to Mt Blanc, it is good if you are mentally prepared, not only for a long and tough summit day, but also for the fact that we will have to adapt to the weather and prevailing conditions. If we cannot complete a summit attempt on Mt Blanc, we choose another nice peak in the Alps to climb instead. Everything for you to have a safe and secure experience.

More information

Please note that a minimum of 2 participants/trip is required for us to carry out the course at the price stated here on the website if you do not want 1:1 guidance and then the price is SEK 49,950 per person.

If you have any further questions about this tour, please contact us at info@mountainguide.se or phone 070 249 47 00